6 ways to finish the edge of your hem

Finishing the raw edge of your hem not only makes it look cleaner and more professional, it also adds durability and helps give your hem a longer life. Here are six different methods you can use to make your hems strong and tidy.

Serged

Serge along the raw edge of the hem, aligning the cut edge with your serger blade. Try to shave off a few threads as you serge, as this will create a much neater and clean-looking edge than not trimming anything off.

Turn up your hem allowance, pin and press, and then stitch as desired.

ZigZag or Mock Overlock

Use a zigzag or mock overlock stitch to sew along the raw edge of your hem. A good zigzag option for a single layer of fabric is the three step zigzag. Instead of sewing one stitch with each zig and zag, it sews three little ones. This helps prevent the zigzag from making a ridge in the fabric.

If you find that your machine is mangling the edge of your fabric, sew ¼” in from the edge and trim the excess when you’re done. Just remember to then deduct ¼” from your hem allowance when you fold and press your hem.

Turn up your hem allowance, pin and press, and then stitch as desired.

Turn Under

This is a good choice when you want a very neat and clean looking finish.

Turn up your hem allowance, pin and press.

Now tuck ½” of the raw edge down into the hem. An easy way to do this is to measure ½” less than your hem allowance with a seam gauge or ruler as you pin.

Press and stitch as desired.

Bias bound

Using bias binding is useful for hems with a slight curve. It’s also a good choice when you’re using bulky fabric and want to avoid the thickness of multiple folds. Use premade single fold bias tape, or make your own out of a fun print.

Press up hem allowance. Open one side of bias tape and align raw edge of bias tape with raw edge of hem allowance, right sides together. Leaving a loose tail of tape at the beginning, backstitch and stitch tape to hem edge along crease in tape.

When you get all the way around, backstitch and a few inches from where your stitching started.

Bring the bias tape tails together and pin them where they should meet, flush with the fabric.

With bias tape completely unfolded, sew together at pin.

Trim tails, press open and attach loose section of bias tape to hem between backstitches.

Fold hem allowance up and stitch around free edge of bias tape to secure.

If you’d like to avoid losing length of the garment to the hem – or if you’re trying to squeeze something out of less fabric – skip the initial pressing of a hem allowance and stitch the bias binding to the raw edge of the fabric as described. Fold it to the inside to create a facing and stitch free edge as desired.

Hem Tape

Hem tape is a quick but professional looking hemming option. It’s a good choice when you have bulky fabric and want avoid the thickness of multiple folds. It also provides a smooth, comfortable edge for more textured or irritating fabrics. It comes in a ton of colors, so you can match your fabric or go with a fun contrasting pop of color.

Press up hem allowance. Overlap hem tape along hem so that the raw edge of the fabric is running down the middle of the hem tape. Edgestitch along tape to secure to fabric.

When you get all the way around your hem, fold under end of hem tape and pivot to stitch down. Fold hem allowance up. Stitch along free edge of hem tape as desired.

Lace Hem Tape

Lace hem tape is a pretty hem finish that is great for lightweight fabrics.

Press up hem allowance. Overlap lace along right side of hem so that the raw edge of the fabric is running down the middle of the lace. Edgestitch along lace to secure to fabric.

Fold hem allowance up. Stitch along free edge of lace as desired.

What’s your favorite way to finish a hem?