Holy smokes, Father’s Day is this Sunday! What a great excuse to share a new pattern with you all: a classic gentleman’s necktie brought to you by the lovely Kristina Angelozzi of Fischer clothing. We will hand the blog over to Kristina as she shows you the step-by-step process for sewing up a super special gift.
Hello Colette readers, I’m Kristina of Fischer clothing from Brooklyn and I’m thrilled Colette Patterns is giving me the opportunity to share a little tutorial with you!
Neckties seem like a pretty cliché Father’s Day gift, but they can definitely take on a whole new sentiment when you make them yourself. It’s so much more personal to hand pick a fabric you know he’ll love, isn’t it? I chose a multicolor madras pattern for my dad since he’s a pretty classic and casual dude.
When I first set out to add ties to my mens collections about two years ago, I searched high and low for a thorough tutorial on how to make them. I was unsuccessful and finally wound up buying a few ties at a thrift store and tearing them apart to see how they were constructed. I altered a few details to suit my style and have been hand-making them here in Brooklyn ever since.
I’ve replicated my patten in a downloadable version for you all to try at home. This tie is a standard 55″ length and 3 3/4″ Wide. It’s slim, and I find it looks good on a variety of body types.
- Our free downloadable necktie pattern
- outer fabric: 3/4 yd of 45″ or 60″ wide fabric
- contrast lining fabric: 1/4 yd
- interlining (I use muslin): 1 1/4 yd
- thread to match the outer fabric
- iron & ironing board
- sewing machine
Before starting, assemble the tiles of your necktie pattern pieces and cut out the pattern. Then follow the instructions below.
1. Cut the Necktie Front (A) and Necktie Tail (B) from the main fabric, cutting these pieces on the bias. Cut the Necktie Front Lining (E) and Necktie Tail Lining (D) from the contrast lining fabric. Cut the Necktie Interlining piece from the interlining fabric. Pay attention to the grainline, as all these pieces should be cut on the bias.
This is what the pieces look after they’ve been cut out:
2. With the right sides together, match up the flat, short ends of the Necktie Front (A) and Nectie Tail (B), as shown. Stitch together with 3/8 seam allowance.
3. Press seam open.
4. Fold the tie in half lengthwise, with the right sides together, as shown below.
Take a look at the ends of your tie and you will see a small flat tip. Stitch across the tip with a 3/8″ seam allowance, stopping 3/8″ from the diagonal edge. In other words, stitch this tip for a few stitches, but do not stitch into the seam allowance. Backstitch to secure.
This small stitched edge will allow you to turn the tip under later.
5. Unfold, then match right sides of the main fabric to right sides of the liner pieces.
6. Sew along the notched edge and one side of point, stopping at the tip before sewing over the small tuck.
7. Starting on the opposite side of the tuck, sew opposite side of point.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 on the other end of the tie. Trim away excess seam allowance.
9. Turn ends inside out and press. You can use a fancy point turner for this, but a simple knitting needle or chopstick will work just fine. Now you’ll see that the small tuck helped to miter the corner.
10. With your tie right side down, lay interlining along the center and tuck ends into the little pockets you created with the outer fabric and the lining. Try and weasel the points together on the inside as closely as possible.
Here, I’m showing the interlining above the lining, so you can see how it should be aligned. But you will want to tuck it inside of the lining piece.
11. Fold over one unfinished edge so the interlining is tucked against the crease.
12. Fold up the opposite unfinished edge.
13. Turn the exposed edge under about 1/2″, making sure to keep the folded as close to the center of the tie’s length as possible. This is your finished center back seam.
14. About 3″ from the bottom of the inside lining, slipstitch the center back seam to the other side of the tie. It does help here to have a few pins to keep it in place.
Also, if you fold the tie in half lengthwise as you sew, you get a better vantage point to catch both pieces of fabric.
15. Once you’ve completed your slipstitching, you’ll need to put a loop of some sort to hold the tail in place while being worn. I use my labels, but you could easily use a a piece of bias tape, grosgrain or just make a little strip out of fabric. My standard placement is 10″ from the tip.
Et viola!! That wasn’t so bad, was it?