Books: What Shall I Wear?

Yesterday I mentioned that Claire McCardell was an inspiration for our latest pattern. So, given the “Before You Sew” theme this month and the recent discussion on sewing and wardrobe planning, I thought it would be the perfect time to share this rare book by designer Clarie McCardell, titled What Shall I Wear? The What, Where, When and How Much of Fashion.

Claire McCardell is known as the originator of the “American Look,” a stylish but casual approach to dress that has had tremendous influence on fashion even up to today. She was a designer who believed in comfort and functionality, but also embraced the idea of mass production. She truly designed for the lives of women, not just their bodies.

Published in 1956, this light book expands her philosophy into general advice on dress and wardrobe planning. Much of her advice seems severely outdated at first glance. For example, there is lengthy discussion of gloves and girdles and their necessity. And she repeatedly emphasizes that a woman should dress for her husband tastes. The book is clearly written for middle-class thin white suburban housewives (or aspiring housewives), and I have to admit that parts of it made me recall that it was considered a woman’s “job” to look a certain way. She even writes at one point “It is taken for granted that none of you are overweight; it is accepted as fact that none of you are perfectly proportioned.” Woe to the reader who might actually have been chubby!

But still, there is a spirit of independence and humor that I think transcends the context of the era. Her passion for comfortable, practical fabrics like wool jersey make you realize that your own taste and personality ought to trump fancy labels. If you prefer jersey to charmeuse, that’s what you should wear. To me, her basic message is to wear the things that fit your life and make you happy.

I also loved her approach to jewelry, which she describes as a collection of little things that mean something to her personally: “I am much more interested in the Fashion value of jewelry, and Tiffany would label my collection junk. But to me it is very special junk that I have been collecting, piece by piece, from Woolworth’s, from Austria, from attics, from antique shops- and from the time I was given my first spending money.”

She takes a contrary approach to outerwear, suggesting that women have a collection of fun and diverse coats instead of one good basic one. She invites the reader to ignore trends that don’t suit her, to embrace subtlety and personality in your clothing, and to dress for oneself, even if no one will see you.

If you can ignore the narrowness of perspective and the outdated world view, Claire McCardell invites you to examine your own tastes, your own life, and to wear the things that bring you joy and forget the rest of it.

{images above: book cover, popover dress 1942, sundress via The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Wool Ensemble via Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection }