Drawing inspiration from corded insertions I came up with this basket weave tutorial.
I love how this detail looks complicated and impressive while being fairly easy to accomplish. A little effort for maximum look is right up my alley. While it is a little time consuming to make the bias tape, you could easily use store bought tape to speed up the process.
You have a few options for doing an inset like this. Above, I created a yoke using the same instructions as our Lace Yoke tutorial.
You can also do a simple inset, which I’ll show below. Both use the same methods, they’re basically just different shapes.
- bias tape or tubing
- tracing wheel
- washaway interfacing (optional)
- On the pattern piece, draw the shape you’d like for your basket weave inset. Follow the instructions in the Lace Yoke Tutorial on how to create a separate yoke piece if you are replacing the yoke. You may be making an inset as shown in the tutorial, the directions for both are the same. Using the new inset pattern piece, cut out wash away interfacing or paper. Draw your basket weave design on the new inset piece.
- Baste along the seam allowance line of the bodice where the basket weave inset will join. Tip: use contrasting thread to easily see it when you remove this stitching in a later step.
- Snip up to the stitching: either at angle toward corners as shown or at intervals along a curve.
- Press the seam allowance to the inside of the garment.
- Fold and press bias binding in half and sew together at least two yards worth. See our Continuous Bias Tape tutorial for more on making your own bias tape. Options: you may leave the bias binding unstitched if you don’t want as many stitching lines in the final garment.
- Pin bias binding strips to the paper or wash away interfacing. Be sure to weave the tape to create the basket weave look.
- Sew bias binding strips to the paper. If using tubing, tack them together with hand stitching where the pieces overlap.
- Pin the right side of the inset to the wrong side of the bodice.
- Slowly edgestitch the bodice. This attaches the inset to the bodice. Trim and finish the seam allowances.
- Add bias binding along the neckline. Remove the basting stitches from step 2. Carefully pull off the paper, or wash garment to remove washaway interfacing.
- Use a contrasting fabric for the bias tape
- Use thinner or wider tape than you normally would
- Try a textured fabric for the bias tape such as Swiss dot or seersucker
- Use a lighter color in the same family as your fashion fabric for the bias tape
We think this looks especially great in light fabrics, and would even be beautiful on lingerie. What do you think?