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Introducing Hawthorn! (+ get 15% off through Friday)

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When we were taking these photos a couple weeks ago, our beautiful model Sierra twirled in this dress and said exactly the words I would want to hear:

“This is a dream dress! It’s so flattering and comfortable at the same time!”

Well, thank you Sierra, for helping me introduce Hawthorn to everyone.

A shirtdress that works with curves

Now, I’ve always loved a good shirtdress. They have that casual chicness that reminds me of gamine starlets like Jean Seberg and (of course) Audrey.

But it’s hard to find one that actually works with my body, and I suspect others have faced the same challenge. They are often quite boxy or unfitted or just puffy (and not in a good way). All well and good if you are a swanlike pixie, but I wanted a truly universal shape that looks just as good on the curvaceous ladies.

Hawthorn still has that late 50s or early 60s casual chic thing going. But the bodice is fitted, while still leaving enough room for easy movement at the waist. The skirt is full, but the fullness comes from a sleek semi-circle cut that drapes (and twirls) wonderfully, rather than pleats or gathers which add extra fabric at the waist. You get a shape that’s streamlined, but still very feminine.

The blouse version has a peplum cut in a similar way, showing off curves and emphasizing the waist without adding too much flare at the hips.

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Easy to style for any season

It’s hard for me to look at a dress like this without imagining all the styling possibilities.

Version 2 is perfect for the cooler transition seasons, especially layered with a pullover or a cardigan and tights. I’m visualizing it paired with a light sweater and a vintage brooch. Or, make it in a chambray (like we did) and roll up the sleeves for an effortless summer dress.

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Version 3 is the perfect summer dress for me. We made ours shown here in white seersucker, and it is so breezy and comfortable. Just add sandals (our clogs shown above with the white dress were provided by Sven, who makes my favorites) and a straw bag. Done.

Classic construction

Shirtdresses often borrow a bit from menswear, which is why they’re such classics. Menswear is so traditional and stable that women’s clothing inspired by it never really goes out of style, yet never feels dull.

Version 2 has a particular menswear touch that I love, a traditional cuff and sleeve placket on the 3/4 length sleeve. This, by the way, also makes it easy to roll to sleeves.

Suitable for many skill levels

While this is an intermediate pattern, I’d say it’s on the easy end of intermediate. Because of the cuff, version 2 is the most challenging, though as always we provide extensive detail in the instructions along with links to tutorials. Versions 1 and 3 are much closer to the beginner level.

Sew-along, special launch discount, and contest!

Ok, now for the fun stuff to go along with it!

  • Sew-along: We’ll be starting a sew-along for this dress in a couple weeks. If you’d like to follow along with all of our step-by step tutorials on each step of the process, get your pattern now!
  • Contest: Because the Laurel contest was such a huge success, we’re going to do another one, although on a much smaller scale. There will be another reader’s choice this time and you can choose the top three favorites. I’ll announce details on that soon.
  • Discount: We love celebrating launches with a special discount, so order your Hawthorn by Friday, and get 15% off!

Watch a short video featuring Hawthorn below:

Watch on Vimeo

Purchase Hawthorn in the Colette Patterns shop now!

Credits:
Model: Sierra McKenzie
Photographer: Sarai Mitnick
Photo assistance: Kristen Blackmore
Wardrobe assistance: Meredith Neal
Hair and Makeup: Robin Carlisle / Holiday Hair Studio
Shoes: Clogs c/o Sven’s Clogs, loafers are vintage Brooks Brothers

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Construction details: 1940s wedding dress from Dear Golden

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You guys seemed to enjoy our last post on vintage construction details so much, I decided to make it a regular feature.

One thing I mentioned in that post is that I wish vintage sellers took the time to photograph the inside of garments more often.

Right after I said that, I spotted this photo of the construction details of a 1920s gown Lauren of Dear Golden posted on Instagram. Lauren has some of the most amazing vintage pieces in all of the land, and I proposed that we team up and show some gorgeous vintage construction to the world.

Lauren will be providing us with detailed shots of the interior and exterior details of some of her most stunning vintage pieces so we can study them like the little fashion geeks we are. Amazing, right?

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First up is this beautiful 1940s wedding gown, now for sale in her shop.

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If you want to purchase this dress, it’s here in the Dear Golden shop.

Images for Constructions Details are kindly provided in conjunction with Lauren of Dear Golden Vintage, purveyor of gorgeous vintage clothing. You should visit her shop!

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Tutorial: Hemming a curved edge by machine

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When I was a young sewist, I made a ton of circle skirts which, oddly enough, I learned to make from a Usenet newsgroup (I am old and a nerd). I wore them over brightly colored crinolines like a 90s goth version of Cyndi Lauper.

The one thing that always stuck in my craw about circle skirts was the hemming. Curved edges can be quite a pain to hem, because the raw edge that you fold under is bigger than the seamline. This can result in all kinds of twists and puckers.

One solution is to stitch your hems by hand. This is often my preference anyway, as I like a wide, invisible hem. But that can take a really long time, and sometimes you just want to let your machine do most of the work.

I’m going to show you my technique for hemming tricky curves with a sewing machine, and a couple tips I’ve picked up through the years.

Continue reading to learn how to sew a curved hem

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The lazy gal’s guide to summer dressing

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Summer should be easy.

Here in Oregon, our summers are gloriously beautiful but far too brief, and followed by a whole lot of grey skies. As a result, most of us spend as much time outdoors as possible. When it’s warm and sunny, I’d rather be running, biking, hiking, gardening, grilling, or camping than thinking about what to wear. Oh, and drinking a cold beer. It is Oregon, after all. You gotta have beer.

Being from southern California, land of perpetual sunshine, I’ve learned that there’s basically one trick to surviving summer without looking like a hot mess (literally and figuratively). You just have to figure out your uniform.

The biggest challenge is remaining comfortable while still feeling cute. I’ve basically come up with a few outfit combos that work for me, like a vintage sundress and clogs, and can throw them on without a lot of brain power.

This is the newest addition to the summer outfit arsenal: a basic black leotard and a full skirt.

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I’m completely in love with leotards right now, and even got Kristen to buy one.

My main impediment to wearing more skirts is that I hate dealing with tucking in blouses, and the poofiness that can sometimes result. With a high waist and large bust, I really do not need poofiness up top. The leotard has solved that problem and is so comfortable too.

Now, the skirt! Since I’ve rarely worn skirts up until now, I wanted to make a new one for summer. I chose this buttery light linen and I’m really digging it, wrinkles and all. The skirt is a semi-circle with a simple waistband. I found these gold buttons in my stash and decided to add some waistband tabs. Kristen actually designed these tabs for another pattern, but they were rejected in favor of another cool detail. But I love them so much, I decided to reuse the idea.

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This whole skirt only took me a couple hours to sew. I’m officially a skirt convert.

PS: After this, I’ll be posting a tutorial on sewing a curved hem by machine, which is what I did on this skirt. I have a few tips and tricks I use that might help you out.

ETA: Several people asked about the leotard in the comments. It’s Capezio brand and I bought it here on Amazon. I needed the size large (I’m a US 8). It has a built in shelf bra, so I stuck some foam cups in (the sew-in kind you can find at fabric stores). Works great!

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