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Version 1 of the Moneta dress features a bodice that is fully lined.
If you’ve struggled before with lining sleeveless tops or dresses, we have a little trick to show you today to get a perfectly lined, clean-finished armhole, all by machine.
The secret is not sewing the armholes all in one go. You sew the front armhole, then the back armhole separately. The video and photos below show this with the Moneta dress, which is made from a knit fabric and sewn with a serger, but you can also use this trick on a woven garment with your standard sewing machine.
Watch the video above and follow these steps to try it out.
1. With right sides together, start by stitching the shoulder seams and side seams together on both the bodice shell and bodice lining.
2. Turn the shell right side out.
3. Place the lining inside the shell, with wrong sides together.
Note: For Moneta, the neckline is left open because a collar is sewn to it later. If you also want to clean finish the neckline at the same time, you can do that before step 3. Place the shell inside the lining with right sides together. Stitch the lining to the shell around the neckline. Turn the lining inside the shell, with wrong sides together, then continue to step 4.
4. Turn the seam allowance under at the front armhole. Press if you find it necessary. You only really need to turn the seam allowance under on part of the armhole.
5. Reach between the lining and shell layers and grasp the two seam allowances of the front armhole. Pull them out through the waist.
6. With right sides together, stitch the shell to the lining along the front armhole. Stitch from the side seam to the shoulder only, don’t try to sew the entire armhole.
The armhole is now finished along the front. Let’s move on to the back.
7. Just as before, reach between the lining and shell layers and grasp the two seam allowances of the back armhole. Pull them out through the waist again.
8. With right sides together, stitch the shell to the lining along the back armhole. Stitch from the side seam to the shoulder only, meeting the stitching of the front armhole.
9. Complete the second armhole in exactly the same way, and you are done!