I was doing a fitting with one of my lovely models last week, and as I pinned her into the gingham muslin, I told her that the dress she would be eventually wearing would be a beautiful blue silk. She had done a bit of sewing and said, “oh, I tried sewing silk once when I didn’t know anything about it. It was probably the hardest thing I’ve ever done.” I imagined that the silk she’d been using was probably something very light (like chiffon) or very slippery (like charmeuse).
I immediately wanted to recommend my favorite product for dealing with these tricky fabrics: Sullivan’s Spray Stabilizer.
Sullivan’s is a spray-on product that makes fabrics stiff and papery. It makes sewing with delicate and slippery fabrics much, much easier. It’s similar to a spray starch, but it tends to be easier on your fabric and doesn’t scorch or build up on your iron. To use it, just spray it liberally onto your (prewashed!) fabric before cutting. When your garment is done, it simply washes away. Voila!
I am a great lover of silk, and it’s probably the fiber I use the most often in my own sewing, so I am pretty familiar with its temperamental forms. Sullivan’s is truly a lifesaver in my studio.
Caveat: Some sewers do not believe in using spray stabilizer on expensive silk, so take that for what it’s worth. I’ve used it many times and have never had a single problem, so I’d invite you to give it a try.




You just resolved my current problem. Light and slippery curtain fabric I have a hard time cutting straight.
I shall look into the purchase of this new friend of mine.
Thanks!!!!
How would you use this if you were sewing say, a silk lining? Would you sew the lining, then wash it, then attach it to the garment?
I need to see if I can get anything like this locally tho. I don’t even know if I can get spray on starch.
You could wash the lining before sewing it in, or I suppose you could wash the entire garment when you’re done (if it’s washable).
Sullivan’s is so amazing. I’d recommend keeping a big of can nearby whenever you’re sewing. It’s truly one of the great tools of the modern age. Don’t buy the little cans…they end up just fizzing and spitting halfway through for some reason.
Use Sullivans on: lighweight jersey mesh, batiste, voile….man, just about anything lightweight that you want to temporarily stiffen. I’ve even used it on lace trim. Totally worth stocking up next time it’s on sale at Hancocks’ or Jo-Ann Fabrics. Sade, if you can’t get it locally buy it online, Vogue Fabrics’ online store has it.
I tried looking for this at JoAnn yesterday but couldn’t find it. Do you know what section they keep it in?
As a side note, how does everyone wash their silk after this spray is used?
Good to know, but what if you’re sewing a garment that is not suitable for washing?
I might try pinning or even basting the fabric to a piece of pattern paper. That worked once when I was doing a small sample.
This is good to know… I’ll have to look for this next time! Thanks!
Wow, I’ve never heard of this, but it looks great. Do you know if you can get it locally at Fabric Depot?
I don’t know for sure, but I’m guessing you can. They definitely have it at Mill End.
I adore these tips and tricks.
Question for you.. recently I had to work with activewear, similar to lycra, and found it nearly impossible to have no skipped stitches. I had the special needles too. Besides practice, do you have any recommendations?
You could try a short overlock stitch, or doing a small size zigzag? I would probably use a serger, though.
So, how do you wash your silks? Is it once through the washer / dryer prior to cutting? by hand? I usually wash silk garments by hand, but it’s been so long since I’ve made anything with silk…
I just wash silks by hand, and drip dry (outside if the weather’s nice, which is rare, or over the tub)
Wow, thanks for the post Sarai, I can’t wait to try this!
I love you deeply for telling me about this– I just *knew* there was a way to sew silks without puckering!
[...] the contrasting sash. This fabric is even silkier than the navy fabric! I’m tempted to follow Collette Pattern’s advice and use a spray stabilizer. Has anyone used this before? Did it work well? What are your tips [...]
I finally found and used this product, and it’s GREAT! I needed to sew a thin amount of silk (1/4″) to the bottom edge of my wool skirt. I used this spray and it was magical.
Thanks so much. :)
I have chemical sensitivities and have problems with the majority of products out there. Do you know if there is a fragrance free stabilizer?
Chiffon is my favorite fabric, but it always slips away… this sounds like a good idea when cutting the fabric – and in some cases when sewing.
[...] at Colette has spoken so eloquently about working with silk, that she makes the prewash sound almost [...]
Does anyone know where one could get this product, or something similar, in Canada? I’m on the West Coast, and my local Fabricland does not have any stabilizers at all. Thanks :)
Thanks for all the info. I am going to purchase this right away!
Thanks so much for this tip–can’t wait to try it!
Anyone know where to get this in New York? Surely somewhere in the garment district carries it, or maybe that Michael’s in Queens?
I’m about to make a Truffle dress out of rayon challis. Would this be good for that?
Sure, if you’re finding it too slippery. I think most challis isn’t *too* difficult to work with unless perhaps it’s a very light weight.