Tired of your lining or facings peeking up from the inside of your garment? Understitching solves this problem! Understitching is simply stitching a line close to the edge of a facing to keep it from rolling toward the outside. It comes in especially handy when sewing around a neckline. It keeps the facing, or lining, firmly on the inside of your garment without any stitches showing on the outside.
1. Stitch the two pieces together right sides facing, following the pattern’s seam allowance.
2. Once the seam has been stitched, press the seam allowance toward the facing or lining. If you’ve sewn a curved area, such as a neckline, this is a good time to clip or notch any curves.
3. Press the right side of the garment. This is to make sure that the seam is perfectly flat.
4. Stitch between 1/8″ to 1/4″ away from the seam line. Here I used the notch on the sewing foot as a guide.
5. You’re done! The inside should look something like the above photo. You can leave the remaining seam allowance as is or trim it back if you prefer. Either way, it won’t be seen since it’ll be sandwiched between the facing and the fashion fabric.
Sometimes you will need to understitch a seam that has corners or other hard to reach areas, which makes it pretty difficult. In this case, just understitch as close to the corner as you can get.